IB3810
Critical Issues in Management
Individual Assignment, 2024
Assignment Instructions
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2000 word limit.
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Academic Practice
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Your assignment instructions begin below.
Allegations of bullying and abuse at The Kitchin - pressures in haute cuisine
Tom Kitchin, a renowned Scottish chef, has built a celebrated career in the culinary world, achieving one of the highest honours in the restaurant industry - a Michelin star. However, recent allegations of abusive behaviour at his Edinburgh-based restaurant, The Kitchin, have cast a shadow over his reputation. In 2021, several former employees of The Kitchin came forward with serious allegations against head chef and owner. These allegations painted a picture of a toxic workplace characterised by verbal abuse, physical intimidation, and bullying.
Former staff reported incidents of being shouted at, insulted, and in some cases, physically pushed by Kitchin or other senior members of the kitchen staff. One former employee alleged that in 2017, a senior chef hit them with a hot tray, causing it to burn their forearms. This was as a result of the chef being upset about overcooked food. The former employee told The Guardian (2021) “It was incredibly painful. I was so angry and upset I almost went for him, what stopped me was the shame of the idea of being sacked from a Michelin-star kitchen.” One former employee described the atmosphere as a “toxic workplace”.
A Guardian (2021) article detailing the case, revealed that staff suspensions followed widespread social media claims about a toxic workplace culture at The Kitchin. Following these allegations, Kitchin suspended the senior staff members implicated in the reports, hired an external HR consultancy to investigate the organisation, and issued a public statement. Whilst Kitchin acknowledged the need for better workplace conditions, he also argued that top level kitchens are challenging environments to work within and that the restaurant had been operating under what was often a ‘traditional culture’ in kitchens (The Herald, 2021).
The Michelin Guide: a source of prestige and pressure
Haute cuisine refers to the elite level of professional cooking and is commonly associated with widespread critical recognition, particularly through the prestigious Michelin Guide and its star-rating system. For chefs like Kitchin, the Michelin Guide represents the pinnacle of culinary achievement. A single star can elevate a restaurant's reputation overnight, while multiple stars solidify a chef’s place among the global elite. For many chefs, the journey to earning a Michelin-star is seen as the ultimate validation of their skills and creativity.
However, Michelin also has the ability to take stars away, which can have significant effects on a chef’s career and the restaurant's performance. A loss of a star can result in decreased customer interest, revenue drops, and a hit to the chef’s reputation. For example, in 2019, renowned chef Marc Veyrat sued the Michelin Guide after his restaurant lost its third star (BBC, 2019). Veyrat ultimately had his case dismissed by the French court, but the legal case highlights the impact of Michelin-star removal on top chefs with Veyrat stating he had been “plunged into months of depression” as a result (BBC, 2019).
Once a restaurant receives its star(s), the pressure to maintain or improve them can become relentless. Michelin inspectors visit anonymously and sporadically, meaning chefs never know when they are being evaluated. This uncertainty contributes to constant vigilance in kitchens, as every service could be the one that determines whether they keep or lose their Michelin-star status.
Tom Kitchin has spoken candidly about the immense pressures of maintaining and increasing Michelin-stars throughout his career, stating that “I would be lying if I said we aren’t” trying to pursue a second Michelin-star. He acknowledged that working in top level kitchens like The Kitchin means "high-pressure, frenetic, and challenging" environments, where "emotions often run high" (BBC, 2021). Other top chefs have also emphasised the importance of maintaining standards during every service as they are “never aware of the inspectors visit” (BBC, 2024).
Former employees at The Kitchin claimed that this pressure contributed to the toxic workplace environment, where “pain, suffering and sacrifice” are perceived as key to achieving success (The Guardian, 2021).
The Michelin-star is a double-edged sword - while it may provide motivation and status, it can also generate an atmosphere of constant pressure and anxiety. Some chefs, overwhelmed by the demands of Michelin, have chosen to return their stars. Chefs like Marco Pierre White and Sébastien Bras have famously handed back their stars, citing both the pressure of the Michelin system and a desire for more creative freedom (CNN, 2020).
Brigade de Cuisine: structure and control
The haute cuisine industry, particularly for those in pursuit of Michelin-stars is often a highly structured process. Many kitchens in this industry are modelled after the ‘brigade de cuisine’ or ‘kitchen brigade’ system. This system, developed by the French chef Georges-Auguste Escoffier in the late 19th century, is modelled after military hierarchies (The Guardian, 2023). It was designed to ensure efficiency and discipline in the kitchen. Each position within the brigade has a clearly defined role, allowing for specialisation and precise execution of tasks.
In top kitchens, head chefs like Kitchin often maintain strict control over all aspects of the kitchen’s operations. This authority extends to both the food and the people. In such environments, top chefs often motivate through fear, using intimidation and verbal reprimands to ensure that their staff meet the exacting standards required. For many chefs, this control is essential to maintain the discipline and focus needed to achieve consistent high standards.
However, in this system, the head chef is not simply a manager but also often the defining figure of the restaurant itself. As described in a New York Times (2020) article, "The chef is in sharp focus, but everything else - everyone else is an inconsequential blur." The head chef is often perceived as the embodiment of the restaurant, responsible for both its creative vision and its success.
The employee experience: stress, fear, and burnout
For employees lower down in the hierarchy, the experience of working in a Michelin-star kitchen can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, it offers a unique opportunity to learn from some of the best chefs in the world and to build a reputation within the industry. Many young chefs endure demanding hours and harsh conditions in the hope that the prestige of working in such an establishment will open doors to future opportunities.
However, the reality of working in these kitchens is often marked by high levels of stress, fear, and burnout. Junior chefs and kitchen staff frequently endure long hours, sometimes working 14 to 16- hour days, with little time for breaks. Constant pressure to perform at a consistently high level can lead to exhaustion, both mentally and physically. Employees at many top kitchens report that the fear of making mistakes creates an atmosphere of anxiety, where even minor errors were met with severe reprimands.
The environment reported at The Kitchin is not unique. A 2023 study reported in The Guardian revealed that suffering has become "central to the culture of elite kitchens." The study found that long hours, abusive behaviour, and high levels of stress are common across top kitchens globally. The union representing hospitality workers has argued that abuse has become "normalised" in many professional kitchens (The Independent, 2021). They have called on the restaurant industry to take more responsibility for protecting employees from exploitation and harm, highlighting the need for systemic change to ensure safer, more supportive workplaces.
The assignment:
Your task is to analyse the factors that may have contributed to Kitchin’s rise to prominence and the subsequent allegations of bullying and abuse. You should consider this within the broader context of the haute cuisine industry. Your assignment should apply two of the four organisational frames discussed in the module - structural, political, human resource, and symbolic – to analyse these factors.
Sources:
BBC News (2021) 'Chef Tom Kitchin staff suspended over bullying claims', BBC News, 3 July. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-57708537 (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
BBC News (2020) 'French chef sues Michelin guide over lost star', BBC News, 31 December. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-50959570 (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
BBC Travel. (2024) 'How do restaurants actually get a Michelin star?', BBC Travel, 23 August.
Available at: https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20240823-how-do-restaurants-actually-get-a-
michelin-star (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
CNN Travel. (2020) 'Why Michelin chefs return their stars', CNN Travel, 3 January. Available at:
https://edition.cnn.com/travel/article/why-michelin-chefs-return-stars/index.html (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
Edinburgh News. (2021) 'Tom Kitchin keeps Michelin star for 14th year in a row as 2021 guide is launched', Edinburgh News, 26 January. Available at:
https://www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/lifestyle/food-and-drink/tom-kitchin-keeps-michelin- star-for-fourteenth-year-in-a-row-as-2021-guide-is-launched-3113728 (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
The Guardian (2021) 'Tom Kitchin restaurant staff suspended after allegations of bullying', The
Guardian, 2 July. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2021/jul/02/tom-kitchin-
restaurant-staff-suspended-bullying-allegations-toxic-workplace-social-media-claims (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
The Guardian. (2023) 'Extreme suffering “central” to culture of elite kitchens, study finds', The Guardian, 20 January. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/food/2023/jan/20/extreme-
suffering-central-to-culture-of-elite-kitchens-study (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
Herald Scotland. (2021) 'Tom Kitchin breaks silence on abuse allegations', Herald Scotland, 16 July. Available at: https://www.heraldscotland.com/life_style/food_and_drink/latest/19449469.tom- kitchin-chef-breaks-silence-abuse-allegations/ (Accessed: 14 October 2024).
The Independent. (2021) ‘Restaurants where staff are bullied or abused should be stripped of Michelin stars, union says’, The Independent, 5 July. Available at:
https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/chef-union-michelin-star-restaurant- bully-allegations-b1878423.html(Accessed: 14 October 2024).
The New York Times. (2020) 'The restaurant industry’s moment of reckoning', The New York Times, 4 August. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/04/dining/chef-restaurant-culture.html
(Accessed: 14 October 2024).